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Laying floor tiles is a job for a professional tiler or a really competent DIY enthusiast because it usually requires special tools and a certain quantity of skill to get it looking perfect. Laying a square or rectangular shaped tile could appear relatively simple however the difficulties arise when tiles should be cut (as they always do) and shaped round obstacles within the room. Cutting hard tiles resembling porcelain floor tiles or some types of natural stone is a job that only professional equipment can do properly. It is potential to hire the right equipment but that can be costly and there may be still a risk of ruining expensive porcelain tiles with a bad cut.

If you are confident sufficient to put in your floor tiles your self, or whether you could have employed a professional tiler, a very powerful thing to do first is put together the surface onto which the tiles will be laid.

If the prevailing floor is concrete then the job will be quite straightforward - the mortar can be applied directly to the floor and the tiles laid on top.

If the present floor is wooden then the solution is less simple - cement backer units (CBU) used with a moisture-proof membrane are a good choice for a wall tile substrate in wet areas and are often additionally used to be able to strengthen a floor and provide a moisture barrier between the tiling and undermendacity wood. However cement backer units will not completely prevent bending of a wooden floor under the weight of very heavy floor tiles. For very heavy tiles being put in over a wooden floor a plywood substrate will be needed.

As soon as the substrate is prepared the world must be measured and the layout in your tile measurement deliberate and marked out. A cement primarily based adhesive (thinset mortar) is then utilized in sections to the substrate with a trowel and every floor tile laid on top using the marked guidelines and plastic tile spacers to maintain even gaps between the tiles for the grout. The advantage of a thinset mortar is that it doesn't dry too quickly so you can shift the tiles slightly to get the proper layout.

As every part of floor tiles is laid the level needs to be checked with a large spirit level because floors are hardly ever completely flat. Extra mortar can be utilized to even out areas the place there's a slight difference in level.

For hard tiles comparable to porcelain tiles a wet saw with a diamond blade is used to chop them round fixed obstacles corresponding to sanitary ware, pipes and doorways.

Once all of the tiles have been laid go away the mortar to dry totally before beginning to fill the gaps between them with grout. There are three different types of grout available:

Unsanded - for grout joints less than 3mm wide

Sanded - for grout joints with a width of 3mm or more

Epoxy - a waterproof and stain resistant grout for any width of grout joint

Choosing the proper type of grout for porcelain floor tiles will give a professional end but will additionally reduce the amount of upkeep required, and if it is properly sealed it will last for as long as the porcelain tiles themselves.

Avoid walking on the floor until the grout has fully dried - this can take as much as 2 days depending on the thickness of your tiles and on the width of the grout joints.

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